New York

In early July, 2003 I took my six-year-old daughter Addie to New York city for the first time, on the occasion of Oliver Sacks' 70th birthday party. My present for the him was an aluminum bowl of copper nodules and nickel crystals, done up to look like a candy dish. Here it is sitting on his desk:

(Nickel + Copper + Aluminum = 28 + 29 + 13 = 70, you see, because it was his 70th birthday).

Now, I'm not in the habit of jetting off to parts far and wide just because someone's having a birthday, but Addie's old enough to see the world now, and when the excuse came up, it just seemed like the thing to do. So off we went for four days in different world, sans familia.

I've visited many cities many times, including New York on a couple of occasions over the years, which means it's been a long time since I have been able to visit the lights of a great city for the first time. But as has been noted by many a parent, the wonderful thing about children is that with them, you can see everything for the first time again. It may not be quite as good as having a chance to do your childhood over again knowing everything you know now and with your own money, but it's close.

I have to admit, New York is a very nice place. On the second day Addie woke up and the first words out of her mouth were "Daddy, I had a horrible dream! You took me back to Illinois!" Of course the night before we had seen Beauty and the Beast on Broadway and then walked back from Times Square to Central Park South, on Broadway, at way past her bedtime: What's the poor child to think?

(If you last saw New York in the '80s, you may wonder what on earth I was thinking, but believe me, this place is nothing like what is used to be.)

While it is rather nice, I do find the New Yorker's attitude that their city is the be-all, end-all of the world to be quite charmingly naive. Their slice of life may be larger than most, but it's still a tiny fraction of the full range of human experience, and a life lived in the city is of course a rather provincial one. The great advantage of living in a small town is that you are under no illusions, and are thus prompted to see the world. New York is worth maybe a couple of weeks a year. (And I am very thankful there are enough people willing to live there to make the whole enterprise possible, because I sure wouldn't be. Thank you, teaming masses, for populating a great place to visit for the week.)

Travelling with a creature as inscrutible as a six-year-old girl is quite an experience. The first night we were almost late to the show because she had to get her hair just so. I didn't realize that was going to be an issue, and I blame the babysitters. Although the guidebook had warned me about it, I also wasn't expecting the strange attraction of the subway: We had to go everywhere on it, despite the noise, the heat, and everything else that I somehow thought would not be attractive to a child. Here she is on the way to Oliver Sacks' birthday party, dressed as Belle from Beauty and the Beast:

When you go to New York, it's good to go in style, even if it is Disney style.

Addie is not particularly shy after the first few minutes in a new place. This is her showing off her photographs to a distinguished neurologist in Sacks' office apartment:

And here is Addie, king of the Central Park Rocks:

I don't care how many guidebooks say they are overpriced, the horse and carriage rides through Central Park are worth every penny, if you have a six-year-old along to appreciate them. So what if we can get the same ride for 1/30th the price back home at Rockome Gardens? The drivers at Rockome Gardens don't talk on their cell phones (worth endless amusement to Addie):

And the rides there don't take you here:

Yes, we passed by Tavern On The Green one evening, so the next night we had to go there for a late late dinner: We were seated at her bedtime and things become more magical to her from there on out. This place may be overrated, but wow the lighting is unbeleavable.

It's just wonderful having an reason to do these things, which I would of course never be caught dead doing without my little excuse by my side. And I get to do it all over again, two more times with two younger children who have no idea what they are about to see for the first time with me.